the 'short rain' season here in Kenya. This was a slight concern because several of the roads in the Aberdares shut down when things get really wet due to the muddy conditions and mudslides. As we approached the western entrance there was a slight drizzle, but fortunately it wasn't the torrential downpours that we've been experiencing quite frequently these days. As we departed the Rift Valley we were soon able to make out the tall peaks that make up the Aberdare mountain range; four of the tallest of which range from 3500m to 4000m. Rising from foothills to the park gate we found that the road turned into a beautiful paved mountain pass. With each 100 meters we gained in altitude the temperature seemed to drop a degree or so. Soon we reached the gate to the park, paid our park fees to the warden, and also picked up the recommended park map which is only available at the park entrances.
After setting up camp we hit the road and found several buffalo, duikers (a type of antelope), and reedbuck. We decided that we had just enough time to visit the nearby Chania waterfalls. The falls were absolutely gorgeous, and the recent rains meant that they were at full-flow: an incredible sight.
quickly as we were eager to start the day off and begin our quest for elephant. We returned to Chania falls for a quick breakfast (which was on the way) consisting of fruit salad, and also samosas warmed on the old engine block. Our goal for the day was to travel the 15 km or so it would take to get to the lowland area of the park known as the salient. It was there that we would have our greatest chance of finding elephants, in addition to other animals such as bongo antelope, wild bush pig, and rhinoceros. Our map that we had purchased at the entrance to the park, and which the warden had assured us was the best map available for the park, indicated that there were two roads leading to the salient. The southern route led to a large red mark on the map labeled "blockade" and then led outside of the park. The northern route was a bit longer, but ultimately led into the salient. Judging by the contour lines it appeared to be a beautiful mountain pass. When we got to the fork which separated the two we headed north and looked forward to avoiding having to exit the park and then re-entering it at another entry point, as the southern route would have required.
did not come as any sort of surprise. We winded up grassy hills, traversed past alpine lakes, and descended through dense bamboo forests. Occasionally the lakes which were flooded would run into the road, but they were easily bypassed and we thought nothing of it. Just before making our decent into the salient, and with only about 5 km to go, the conditions became slightly more muddy. We were in a small valley which acted as a sink, collecting rainwater and turning dirt to thick mud.
timing of the parking break, clutch, and gas pedal wasn't happening. She decided it was best if she pushed. I wasn't comfortable with her doing all the hard work, but we both decided that it wouldn't take too long, and I was better at getting old Battlecat out of the mud. The elephants were waiting.
order before decending into the salient: our destination for the elephants. After the muddy hill debacle we were feeling pretty good about ourselves, and that we could get out of almost anything mother nature threw at us. Sure the day was pretty much spent (it was almost 4pm), but we had survived a difficult situation and we would have some great stories for years down the road. Our smiles faded as we approached the nothern gate only to discover that the road leading into the salient was closed (and had been for some time) and our only option was to exit the park at the gate, and then drive around to another entrance to the east.
and the sun would soon go down. Our campsite wasn't too far away, and we barreled past huge wild bushpigs and numerous antelope as we raced the suns decent to the horizon. We arrived to find a much nicer campsite than where we had stayed the previous night. It was called 'Bongo Campsite' (after the rare 'Bongo' antelope) and is aptly named, for it is an antelope grazing pasture. It had nice short grass, and antelopes all over. We set up the tent and had a fire going in record time.
be the day that we would find our elephants. To further lift our spirits, a black rhinoceros (rare in these parts compared with the white rhinoceros) trotted out the woods not 30 meters from us, turned the corner, and headed hack into some bushes a little further down the way as we packed the tent up. It was a good sign indeed.
The first road we found ourselves on followed a beautiful ridge which paralleled a river. It was absolutely gorgeous and gave us a great vantage point to spot potential elephants. Mt Kenya broke through the clouds for a short period of time. We set off after breakfast feeling rejuvinated, inspired, and ready to spot some elephants."Little Galdessa made the Keepers very happy today, because he has been running to his blanket to take his milk eagerly, previously having been a very reluctant feeder because his face was so sore."
